Cosmetics: moving towards green formulations

Historically using plant-based raw materials, the cosmetics industry is now turning to green formulations. How is it doing this, what are its objectives, and how does it differ from greenwashing, a phenomenon that is closely monitored in Switzerland and the European Union?

What is green formulation?

In the cosmetics industry, green formulation involves designing high-performance products that are also environmentally friendly. It favors natural ingredients, particularly those sourced from organic farming, and aims to reduce the ecological impact at every stage: choice of raw materials, manufacturing processes, energy consumption, packaging, and product life cycle.
This approach is in line with the growing expectations of European and Swiss consumers, who are looking for products that are transparent, traceable, and environmentally friendly.

The transition to green formulations can be gradual. Some brands are making initial adjustments, while others are undergoing a complete transformation with recognized certifications. In Switzerland and Europe, labels such as Ecocert, Cosmebio, BDIH, Natrue, and Bio Inspecta guarantee compliance with strict standards. Ingredient suppliers are also adapting by offering more and more certified raw materials.

In summary, green formulations are based on plant-based ingredients, sustainable chemistry, and processes that limit the use or generation of substances that are harmful to the environment. Advances in green chemistry now make it possible to formulate natural products that are as effective as conventional products. Biotech-derived hyaluronic acid, which is widely used in Switzerland, is one example.

Natural cosmetics or organic cosmetics: what's the difference?

An organic product must be natural, but it must also meet specific requirements and have official certification (Ecocert, Natrue, Cosmebio, BDIH, Bio Inspecta in Switzerland).
A product labeled as natural is not necessarily certified. To be considered truly natural, it must contain between 90 and 95 percent ingredients of natural origin. Below these thresholds, it is considered a conventional cosmetic.

The environmental aspect

Environmental impact is a key factor in green formulation. The cosmetics industry is seeking to conserve resources, reduce waste, and respond to new consumer behaviors observed in Europe and Switzerland. Swiss consumers place particular importance on sustainability, the origin of ingredients, and the reduction of controversial substances.

A health-related aspect

Natural and organic products are also valued for their safety. They do not contain any petrochemical-based ingredients, such as certain mineral oils or silicones. Most natural ingredients are biodegradable and better tolerated by the skin. Plant-based dyes, for example, settle on the surface without penetrating the hair fiber.

The constraints of green formulation

Despite its advantages, green formulation imposes technical constraints. Plant materials are living organisms and can vary from harvest to harvest. They can be strongly scented, colorful, or sensitive to oxidation. Formulators must master solubility methods, preservation requirements, and texture harmonization. Due to a lack of technical expertise, some brands opt for marketing rhetoric rather than a genuine ecological approach.

The excesses of greenwashing

Greenwashing involves giving a product a natural or eco-friendly appearance without the formulation actually being environmentally friendly. This practice, considered misleading or deceptive advertising, is increasingly being monitored in Switzerland by authorities and consumer associations.

How can you spot it?

The brand may use a name evocative of nature, green or transparent packaging, a logo representing a leaf or tree, or language using ecological vocabulary without any real basis.
It may also highlight a single natural ingredient or a claim such as «silicone-free» without offering a truly natural or certified formula.
Some self-certification labels can also be misleading. For a reliable guarantee, only certifications recognized in Europe and Switzerland should be considered: Ecocert, Natrue, Cosmebio, BDIH, Bio Inspecta, Icea, Eco-Garantie.